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Although the Los Alamos Ranch School in New Mexico
provided some housing and office facilities, the new Los Alamos
Laboratory required a whole new set of technical buildings as well as
barracks, family housing and office space. And although Manhattan
Engineer District commander Gen. Leslie Groves found the site ideal
from the security point of view and the scientific director, J. Robert
Oppenheimer of the University of California, Berkeley, found it
idyllic as a retreat for scientists, those who had to build the
Laboratory had great difficulty.
Located several thousand feet above the Rio Grande
valley, far from sources of labor and construction materials, 40 miles
from the nearest railroad, accessible only by totally inadequate
roads, with insufficient water, no natural gas and a limited
electrical supply, Los Alamos presented a real challenge to those who
had to make the soldiers' and scientists' plans a reality.
The MED's site report, written in November 1942,
predicted most of the problems. It was ignored, in the interests of
time. Less than a week after it was written, Groves ordered the
construction of barracks, a mess hall, officers' quarters, laboratory
administration and technical buildings, a theater, an infirmary,
apartments, utilities, streets and fencing. Some $26 million was spent
on construction in Los Alamos during the war, approximately $200
million in today's dollars. Without a doubt, it would have been
cheaper to build in almost any other location.
In January 1943, the estimated population of Los
Alamos had risen to 1,500. By January 1944, it reached 3,500, and a
year later it reached 5,700.
Each new influx of personnel led to a new spate of
construction. In the first phase, before the opening of the Laboratory
in April 1943, the Sundt Co. of Tucson, Ariz., had built or remodeled
100 buildings. Sundt was selected by Col. Lyle Rosenberg, the
Albuquerque district engineer for the Corps of Engineers, because it
was well equipped to handle the task and had just completed Camp Luna
at Las Vegas, N.M., and was free to take on the job. Because Sundt had
its own plumbing, electrical, painting and transportation departments,
security was more easily assured.
Construction began on Dec. 6 and was scheduled to be
finished on March 15, 1943. Groves wanted 20 percent of the housing
ready by Jan. 2, and the technical buildings ready by Feb. 1. Within
two months, Sundt completed 54 percent of the construction, although
the company received the first blueprints for the technical area
plans for two buildings only on Jan. 7.
Although they were quickly built, the Sundt houses
were hardly high quality or inexpensive. Col. John Dudley, who
supervised the early construction for Groves, answered the question of
"why did we put those horrible houses there?" this way: "An act of
Congress had established a civilian housing agency that set up
standards for housing in the United States to be built during the war
years. It specified what would go on the inside. For instance, it
specified Ôshowers, no bathtubs.' The manufacturers of bathtubs in the
United States had ceased manufacturing bathtubs about 1942. So even if
you tried to get them, they were hard to find."
Those scientists and officers fortunate enough to be
housed in the Ranch School buildings had the only such facilities in
town; hence the name, "Bathtub Row."
Bathtubs were not the only prized commodity.
Dudley's orders included putting in coal stoves. "Some of us have had
experience in cooking on a coal stove; not very many! Along about
January-February of 1943 the housing criteria were outside our hands.
Groves tried to get the criteria modified. He was successful in many
matters but not in the housing problem," said Dudley.
Building a modern scientific laboratory presented
greater problems. By the time the first scientists arrived on March
15, 3,000 construction workers had been at work for three months and
had almost completed the administration building, five laboratories, a
machine shop, a warehouse and a barracks. The work was far from
perfect, and the morale of the workers, who had been building for
three months without any idea of what they were working on, was low.
They did not welcome the scientists/critics with enthusiasm.
Physicist Robert Wilson of Princeton University, who
was to take charge of the cyclotron brought from Harvard for the
project, recalled, "Almost straight away we were in a we-they
situation. ...There was a lieutenant colonel in charge of putting in
the facilities for the building housing the cyclotron. On my first
visit, I spotted that the wires bringing in the power were too small;
the cyclotron was off to the side some way from the power house and
there was bound to be a voltage drop.
"Well, I pointed out the mistake to this colonel and
that the wiring would have to be redone, and he decided that things
had gone too far and that he was going to make a fight. É Oppenheimer
had to write a letter to Groves about it, and eventually this officer
was shipped off to the South Pacific."
The other accelerators presented similar challenges
to the military- industrial mind. University of Illinois physicist
John Manley arranged to provide a Cockcroft-Walton accelerator from
Illinois and two Van de Graaff electrostatic generators from the
University of Wisconsin for the measurement of nuclear constants.
With Stone and Webster Engineering Co. in Boston, he
had carefully worked out the design of the buildings. "I hadn't seen
the ground on which the buildings would be erected," Manley recalled.
"I tried to protect myself a little bit and also cut construction time
by marking on the drawings that the contractor should take advantage
of the terrain in locating the buildings. The Van de Graaffs were very
heavy instruments and the accelerator from Illinois was a vertical
machine that required a basement, so we'd specified that a basement be
excavated for that machine and that there must be a good foundation
under the Van de Graaff accelerators. Cost and construction time could
obviously be saved if they selected the terrain properly," Manley
continued.
When Manley arrived at Los Alamos, after traveling
up the steep gravel road from Otowi crossing in a truck carrying the
Cockcroft-Walton acceleration tube, "the first thing I wanted to see
was the building that I'd specified be oriented properly back in
Boston. There are enough jokes about the Army way so you can guess
what I saw. The basement for the Cockcroft-Walton had been dug out of
solid rock and that rock debris taken over to the other end of the
building and used for fill under the Van de Graaffs, where there was
supposed to be a good foundation," Manley said.
Manley, Wilson and the other newcomers pitched in to
finish the construction of the laboratories. John Williams, a
University of Minnesota experimental physicist, took charge of this
effort and lived on the site as acting site director until the
buildings were ready to house the physicists. This took some time.
Sundt was unable to get sufficient labor to meet the
deadlines, and those it could find made trouble through their building
trade unions. It could not get or install basic laboratory equipment
rapidly enough to suit the scientists, who brought pressure on the
company through the Corps of Engineers.
As Wilson's story indicates, these officers were not
always sympathetic. Indeed, in some cases scientists were forbidden to
enter the buildings until they had been formally accepted by the
Albuquerque office of the Corps of Engineers, so that it was
impossible to make minor changes, such as placing shelves, until the
building was completed and accepted as specified in the original
drawings. "individually and in detail these early troubles are of
little moment in the history of Los Alamos," David Hawkins, the
Laboratory's first historian, wrote. "collectively, they had effects,
some good and some bad, upon the spirit and tone of the emerging
project organization."
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