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The Big House is where the early arrivals at the Lab
were housed.
In March 1943, the new Manhattan Engineer District
(MED) Laboratory created to design nuclear weapons was under
construction near Ashley Pond in Los Alamos. The man MED commander
Gen. Leslie Groves had selected to lead the laboratory, University of
California theoretical physicist
J. Robert Oppenheimer, had assembled the beginnings
of a staff for the Laboratory. Edward Condon, who had directed the
Westinghouse Research Laboratory, had agreed to serve as his
assistant, supplying industrial expertise (as well as a background in
quantum mechanics) to complement Oppenheimer's academic experience.
others were experimental physicist Robert Bacher and theorist Hans
Bethe of Cornell University, UC physics professor Edwin McMillan, John
Manley and Robert Serber of the University of Illinois, Washington
University theorist Edward Teller, and University of Chicago
experimentalist Samuel Allison.
Early that same month, Oppenheimer drove to Santa Fe
from Berkeley, Calif. His principal theoretical assistant, Serber,
followed a couple of days later. "We drove from Berkeley across Route
66 with everything in the car, just as we had done going down to
Pasadena, Calif., and to Oppenheimer's ranch in New Mexico in the
earlier years. Los Alamos was the kind of mess you'd expect it to be
at that stage. The housing wasn't ready, so the Army had rented a
couple of dude ranches down in the valley, and most of the people
stayed there," Serber wrote.
Richard Feynman came from the other coast. He
recounted, "We were told to be very careful not to buy our train
tickets in Princeton, N.J., for example, because Princeton was a very
small station, and if everybody bought train tickets to Albuquerque,
N.M., in Princeton, there would be some suspicions that something was
up. And so everybody bought their tickets somewhere else, except me,
because I figured if everybody bought their tickets somewhere else. É
When we arrived, the houses and dormitories were not ready. In fact,
even the laboratories were not ready."
The unsettled conditions presented numerous
challenges. Oppenheimer had to prevent the Army from cutting down all
the trees on the mesa, write out passes on ordinary stationery to get
his staff past the construction site guards (only one Army lieutenant
staffed the security office and the badges that would become
ubiquitous were not yet available) and organize his administrative
offices.
"Project Y," the code name for Los Alamos military
headquarters, had been set up in the Bishop Building on East Palace
Avenue (across the street from the current Palace Restaurant) in Santa
Fe on Jan. 4, and an office had been provided for Oppenheimer in
another Santa Fe building soon thereafter. Col. John Dudley, who set
them up, recalled, "the separation was necessary as the office
buildings in Santa Fe at that time were quite small. There wasn't
space for the two together. Later I came to realize that actually it
was probably a good idea that we were separate." Col. J.M. Harman, the
military commander at Los Alamos, arrived on Jan. 16 and, with a staff
of six officers, a few civilian experts, and Women's Army Corps
secretaries and switchboard operators, planned to provide for the
"feeding, shelter, general comfort and welfare" of the technical
personnel. Their work, however, was left up to Oppenheimer.
Oppenheimer had neither the taste nor the
inclination for organization. Very shortly after the military
organization was set up in Santa Fe, John Manley, who had coordinated
the experimental studies supporting Oppenheimer's theoretical work on
bomb design, visited Berkeley to discuss the organization of the
Laboratory. Manley said he had "bugged Oppie for I don't know how many
months about an organization chart who was going to be responsible
for this and who was going to be responsible for that. But each time
he would seem to be about as unresponsive as an experimental physicist
would think a theorist would be, and I'm sure he was, maybe more so."
Arriving at Oppenheimer's office in UC's LeConte Hall, Manley found
that Condon had finally persuaded Oppenheimer that it was necessary.
"Here's your damned organization chart!" Oppenheimer exclaimed,
throwing a piece of paper at Manley.
Manley noted that Oppenheimer had assumed that he
would head the theoretical division at Los Alamos as well as directing
the Laboratory. Columbia's I.I. Rabi, who advised Oppenheimer
extensively during this period based upon his own experience in
helping to organize the Massachusett Institute of Technology Radiation
Laboratory, convinced him that this would not do. Bacher, tapped by
Oppenheimer to head the experimental physics division, also argued
that Oppenheimer could not perform both jobs. Oppenheimer gave in and
appointed Bethe to head the division.
Oppenheimer's optimism about being able to handle
both jobs evaporated as his estimate that only about 100 scientific
staff would be required proved far too conservative.
Still, there were only a score of research
scientists in the first contingent that arrived in the middle of
March, including Robert Wilson and Feynman from Princeton. And from
the University of Minnesota came Serber and John Williams, who served
as acting site director at Los Alamos while the rest of the staff
remained at the project office in Santa Fe.
The adaptation to New Mexico life was hard for both
the staff and their families. Because they lived on dude ranches
around Santa Fe, Laboratory families were often without adequate
cooking and other facilities while they awaited completion of housing.
The transportation to Los Alamos was haphazard. The
road was poor and there were too few cars, none of which were in good
condition. The project's official historian, David Hawkins, reported
technical workers were frequently stranded on the road with mechanical
breakdowns or flat tires. Eating facilities at the site were not yet
in operation and box lunches had to be sent from Santa Fe. It was
winter and sandwiches were not viewed with enthusiasm. The car that
carried the lunches was inclined to break down. the working day was
thus irregular and short, and night work impossible.
Those who did manage to live in Ranch School
housing, like Serber and Feynman, experienced other problems. Serber
remembered, "I stayed in what had been the dormitory of the old Ranch
School that the Army had taken over for the lab, the building called
the Big House that's since been torn down. It was a huge log cabin. It
had one big bathroom. Charlotte [Serber's wife], would be taking a
shower and a boy would stick his head in by mistake and be extremely
embarrassed."
Feynman recalled living in the Mechanics' Lodge of
the Ranch School. "The first place they put us was in an old school
building. ...We were all jammed there in bunk beds, and it wasn't
organized very well because Bob Christy, a theoretical physicist from
the University of Chicago, and his wife had to go to the bathroom
through our bedroom. So that was very uncomfortable. The next place we
moved was ... the Big House, which had a balcony all the way around
the outside on the second floor, where all the beds were lined up next
to each other, along the wall. Downstairs there was a big chart that
told you what your bed number was and which bathroom to change your
clothes in. Under my name it said Bathroom C, but no bed number! By
this time I was getting annoyed."
The hardships of these early pioneers at Los Alamos
were only beginning. Working in a half-built laboratory, they faced
the challenge of designing a weapon with nuclear materials yet to be
made in Oak Ridge, Tenn., and Hanford, Wash.
The estimates of the amount of uranium-235 that
would be required doubled about this time, which meant that the
electromagnetic separation facilities planned for Oak Ridge would have
to work nearly two months longer than had been planned.
"Since we had no idea where the Germans were in this
whole business," Manley recalled, "whether they had isotope separation
plants going, whether they had a chain reaction going and were making
plutonium, or were almost ready to drop bombs those two months could
mean we'd lose."
The stakes were high and the time was short
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